Small Group Highlight: Farmhouse Lunch on Sicily's Mt. Etna

The Greek Theater of Taormina, with imposing Mt. Etna standing silently in the background

Standing sentinel at the eastern end of Sicily, legendary Mount Etna has long loomed large in the minds of locals and travelers to this Mediterranean island. Followers of the ancient Roman gods believed that Vulcan, steward of fire and the forge, maintained his otherworldly blacksmith’s shop beneath this unusually active volcano. The same was true of the Greeks, who held that the smithy of Hephaestus produced the red-hot lava that periodically coats this ancient mountain’s slopes. Still other tales paint Etna as the resting place of Typhon, the uber-serpent and one of Zeus’s original combatants for the throne of the Greek gods; or even the refuge of King Arthur and his faerie half-sister Morgan le Fay. 

It’s the highest peak in Italy south of the Alps, and at more than 11,000 feet, ranks as one of the tallest active volcanoes in Europe. Etna dominates the skyline of eastern Sicily, providing a reference point for the dozen municipalities who claim territory on its broad shoulders. But Etna is much more than a local legend – it’s an integral part of the island’s agricultural economy, and on each of our two small group tours to Sicily, we get a firsthand taste of just how vital this volcano is to everyday Sicilian life.

Explore the tours: Sicily in Depth | Southern Italy & Sicily

Lemons to kiwis, olives to grapes, blood oranges to pistachios, and more – Etna’s fertile soil hosts a myriad of agricultural crops

Group photo at the farm

Etna is one of the world’s most active volcanoes, belching ash plumes and lava fountains into the sky multiple times per year, including a recent period of near-daily activity in 2021. Despite (or perhaps because of) this frequent activity, the eruptions very rarely threaten the surrounding communities – more than six centuries have passed since the lava actually reached the sea, some 12 miles from the summit. Still, the sight of the dried lava is enough to give pause. Great mounds of it lie in massive folds, looking almost alive; depending on its age, the lava is red, grey, or black.

From all this lava come the seeds of Etna’s flourishing agricultural ecosystem. With every new eruption, more mineral-rich tephra (a term for all solid material ejected during an eruption) lands on the slopes of the volcano. These rocks and ash particles are packed with potassium, phosphorous, and magnesium – key nutrients that nourish the many farms and fields in the surrounding area. And the tephra’s porous, spongy texture allows for excellent drainage, minimal water stagnation, and an ideal environment for crops to soak up all the water they need. 

All of that volcanology serves as the context for one of the highlights of our two Sicily tours: a home-hosted lunch at a private farm on the slopes of Mount Etna. Surrounded by acres of lemon and kiwi groves, we enjoy a hearty meal and the genial hospitality of our hosts, offering a chance to sit back and truly appreciate a lifestyle that many of us rarely consider. 

Views of Etna from the farm

After exploring Etna in the morning, guests head to the farm, where immediately upon arrival, they are greeted by the aroma of fresh lemons and orange blossoms. A short walk leads to the farm’s main villa, where the owners greet our group and offer an overview of the farm’s history and the details of the upcoming meal – what guests will be enjoying, where the ingredients come from, and how it will be prepared.

Antipasti from our lunch at the farmhouse

 Along with lunch, we sample some excellent Sicilian wines made from grapes grown in conditions similar to those at California’s best vineyards: warm temperatures; rich, hilly terrain; and soft sea breezes.

Pasta alla Norma – fried eggplant with penne and cheese – a staple of Sicilian cuisine, and a dish served at one of our group lunches at the farm

After the meal, guests head to the rooftop terrace for espresso, photos, and more time to soak in the views of the endless rows of citrus trees backdropped by majestic Mount Etna. Paired with the scent of fresh fruit and the warmth of our traveling companions, this lunch remains a stirring memory for everyone who joins us on tour in Sicily. 

If you’re ready to leave your own footsteps on the slopes of this legendary mountain, explore both of our small group tours to Sicily here: Sicily in Depth | Southern Italy & Sicily.

Dessert at the farm: Gelo di Arancia, a delicate fruit pudding topped with chopped local pistachios